[Monkeyman]

After a power failure, it's always completely rebooted both with LL and when I had Windows.  This is something different.

Apparently, it's not memory related.  I ran memtest and it didn't show anything wrong.  I think I'll start by replacing the PSU.  If the problem persists, I'll replace the CPU, mobo and memory (only because a new mobo will require faster RAM).  If a basically new computer doesn't fix it, at least I'll know it's not hardware related.  :)

[Scott(0)]

Hi Monkeyman,

If you're willing to spend the money to replace the parts you mentioned above my vote is to consider buying a ups first. The filter feature is what saved me.

Years ago I had strange issues with a PC and all the troubleshooting in the world didn't help. By luck I had a ups from another project and when I connected it the unit would alarm in fast chirps every few seconds and then go quiet for a few minutes. Strange. The cause turned out to be "dirty" power.

I thought it was a joke but it turned out to be a real thing. It easy to Google, here's a link - http://www.emersonnetworkpower.com/en-US...Power.aspx

There's no guarantee power is an issue or that this will help but it's probably worth a try.

Note. The "filter" feature I mentioned above may not be what it's actually called in a ups brochure but what it did was smooth out power anomalies like spikes, lows, and noise. I'm just playing back what an electrician told me or I read on the 'net. I know very little about this stuff.

[shengchieh]

First narrow down what the bug is (hardware, software, power outlet, etc).  Then if problem is power outlet, consider buying an UPS or APC.  Then you will never have to see your
computer turning off abruptly.

Sheng-Chieh

[Monkeyman]

First narrow down what the bug is (hardware, software, power outlet, etc).  Then if problem is power outlet, consider buying an UPS or APC.  Then you will never have to see your
computer turning off abruptly.

Sheng-Chieh

That's what I've been trying to do.  I ran memtest to see if the RAM was wonky (it's not).  It "could" be the outlet (old house, old wiring) but I really have no way to test that.  My only other computer is a laptop.  I can't even tell if there's been a continuous power outage with that as the battery kicks in when the power goes out.  Since I can't check the power, I'm down to replacing parts.  I'm NOT made of money by any means (I generally live flat broke) but my computer is important to me so I'll buy components piece by piece until 1) the problem is fixed or 2) I've built a new computer.  I'd much rather find the problem and "fix" it for free as that's pretty much what my budget allows.

Are there any programs that will test the PSU, mobo, CPU like memtest does for the RAM?

[Monkeyman]

Hi Monkeyman,

If you're willing to spend the money to replace the parts you mentioned above my vote is to consider buying a ups first. The filter feature is what saved me.

I understand the "filter" feature (in the most basic sense).  It's not as much "willing" to spend the money as "needing" to spend the money.  The computer/internet is ALL I do outside of work, especially during this time of year.  I'll probably buy a PSU first as mine is 5 years old and it's been run pretty much continuously during that time.  MTBF is supposed to be 100k hours and (if I did the math right), 5 years is only about 50k hours but that's still quite a bit.  It wouldn't surprise me if it was going out.  I'll add a UPS to my next build whether that's this winter or a couple years from now.

[gold_finger]

Monkeyman,

Nice computer!  Very similar to the desktop I built around that same time and am working on now.  :D

Don't know what problem is or solution other than what has already been said and tried, but have another idea.

If you've got a spare hard drive, put that in the computer and install LL to it.  Do the updates to the system.  Then leave the computer on with the fresh install and see if same thing happens.  If it doesn't, then maybe something got messed up on your current installed system that's causing it to shutdown/reboot.

I don't know.  It's a long shot, but might be worth a shot just to see.


P.s.  If you don't have a spare HDD, do you have room enough on the current drive to install a second OS?  You could make a new partition, install a fresh OS to it and do same test as above.  (Suggesting you set-up a dual-boot with your current LL, not replacing LL.)  Don't attempt this if you're not versed in partitioning and make sure to install second boot loader to the new OS's root partition instead of the MBR.  (Can give more details later if you want to go this route.)

[Monkeyman]

I'll have to look around to see if I have a spare HDD.  I don't know jack about partioning so I'd probably better not try that without some extreme assistance.

[shengchieh]

My only other computer is a laptop.  I can't even tell if there's been a continuous power outage with that as the battery kicks in when the power goes out. 

Take the battery out (unless you are unfortunate to have the battery glued to the laptop).

Sheng-Chieh

[N4RPS]

Hello!

You can verify your power situation by removing your laptop's battery, plugging in the power adapter, and firing up both 'puters. If they BOTH die at around the same time, round up some dogs to hunt down your electricity provider with.

Many modern BIOSes have a screen that displays power supply voltages and the RPM of the fans (including the CPU fan) and the temperature of the CPU. Fire the PC up, go to that BIOS screen, LET IT COOK, and look at the readings on that screen every now and then. THAT should give you a better idea of what's going on, such as voltage issues, fan failures (however, before they die, they usually get noisy first), or CPU overheating.

If you haven't blown the dust out of it in a while, try that first. Concentrate around the CPU heatsink. I use a leaf blower to do this, but a vacuum cleaner that blows air or compressed air works, also.

While you have it open, inspect the electrolytic capacitors, which look like little vertical cylinders. If the tops of any of them are bulging or have split open and leaked electrolyte out, think about a new motherboard.

After what you can do for free has been done, the heat sink paste on the CPU could have broken down, reducing its ability to move heat from the CPU to the heat sink. The CPU has built-in thermal shutdown protection, and will shut everything off if it overheats.  Ranging from $5 to $15 per tiny tube, this paste is cheaper than a power supply.

Before buying a replacement power supply (roughly $40), at that price or less, another cast-off PC might be a better idea.

I think THAT covers all the bases, but if not, somebody speak up...

73 DE N4RPS
Rob

[Monkeyman]

Hello!

You can verify your power situation by removing your laptop's battery, plugging in the power adapter, and firing up both 'puters. If they BOTH die at around the same time, round up some dogs to hunt down your electricity provider with.

Many modern BIOSes have a screen that displays power supply voltages and the RPM of the fans (including the CPU fan) and the temperature of the CPU. Fire the PC up, go to that BIOS screen, LET IT COOK, and look at the readings on that screen every now and then. THAT should give you a better idea of what's going on, such as voltage issues, fan failures (however, before they die, they usually get noisy first), or CPU overheating.

If you haven't blown the dust out of it in a while, try that first. Concentrate around the CPU heatsink. I use a leaf blower to do this, but a vacuum cleaner that blows air or compressed air works, also.

While you have it open, inspect the electrolytic capacitors, which look like little vertical cylinders. If the tops of any of them are bulging or have split open and leaked electrolyte out, think about a new motherboard.

After what you can do for free has been done, the heat sink paste on the CPU could have broken down, reducing its ability to move heat from the CPU to the heat sink. The CPU has built-in thermal shutdown protection, and will shut everything off if it overheats.  Ranging from $5 to $15 per tiny tube, this paste is cheaper than a power supply.

Before buying a replacement power supply (roughly $40), at that price or less, another cast-off PC might be a better idea.

I think THAT covers all the bases, but if not, somebody speak up...

73 DE N4RPS
Rob

Thanks for the suggestions.  I work today (well, tonight) but I'll try that test with the laptop and PC this weekend.  The PC hasn't died in a while so maybe it was a fluke (or a number of flukes).  I've installed LL on my SSD so, if just the PC dies, I'll try running the SSD (with nothing extra added) to see if it's HDD/OS related.

My BIOS has a separate program that shows all that stuff.  Unfortunately, it's Windows based.  Not sure if I trust it to run in Wine.

When I installed LL on this PC, I blew the dust out.  I can't say it's squeaky clean but it's pretty damn close.  :)

I'll also check the electrolytic capacitors this weekend.  The mobo is a few years old so it's possible they're going/gone.

I hadn't thought about old heat sink paste.  Good idea!  I'll probably buy a tube of that and use it even if it's not a problem.  It certainly can't hurt.

If I need a new PSU, I'll buy one as well as a new mobo, CPU, RAM, etc and just build a new rig.  I'm not made of money but I'm on the computer all the time so it would be worth it to me.